Socializing Your Dog: More Than Just Exposure

In order to become generally confident and relaxed, and therefore relaxing companions, dogs need to be exposed to lots of different types of people, animals, situations, and things. Exposing your puppy or dog to new stuff is good for him, but there is more to good socialization than exposure. The quality of those interactions is important. Because socialization is so important and most commonly considered during early puppyhood, I’ll focus there, but adult dogs can still benefit from socialization. Even a dog that missed out on key socialization areas as a puppy can learn to deal appropriately with new things.

Proper socialization is all about positive novel experiences, controlled exposure to new or potentially problematic things, and good behavior in these situations. Ideally, exposure to lots of new things starts before the puppy leaves his mom. Dogs are programmed to be most accepting of new things before they’re about 12 weeks old. After that time, as their brains develop, they become much less apt to look on new experiences as positive. That doesn’t mean that socialization ends at 12 weeks, just that your best window of opportunity is when the puppy is still quite young. Unfortunately, that’s also before a puppy is completely protected from diseases such as Parvo by his vaccination series, and too young for a rabies vaccine. It’s still important to balance your puppy’s physical health with exposure to new dogs, people, and places. Inadequate socialization is an easy way to end up with behavioral issues such as fear aggression, and behavioral issues are the number one reason dogs lose their homes. A good balance is to carry your puppy in public places where unvaccinated dogs are likely to frequent, and visit with friends, their dogs and children in your home or at theirs. Even with less direct interaction, your puppy is seeing and learning about everything around him in your arms. Once his vaccinations are complete, you can move to more direct exposure to strange dogs and places.

While you’re working on socialization, it’s important to let your dog’s comfort guide how fast and how far interactions go. If you expose your puppy or dog to lots of new things but he’s terrified the whole time, you haven’t taught him anything good. This is especially true with other animals and children, who are most likely to do something scary. If you allow a child pick up your young, fragile puppy, and drop him, scare him with loud noises or rough handling, or otherwise terrify him, he’s learned something about children and it’s not what you want him to pick up. Your job is to pair interactions with positive things such as attention your dog’s body language indicates he enjoys and yummy treats. Sometimes novel things are immediately accepted, and sometimes you’ll have to work a bit to get your dog comfortable. Wait to up the intensity until your dog is comfortable and either relaxed or politely eager to continue. If your dog is too afraid to eat treats, or is shivering with a tucked tail, you need to back off and work more slowly to develop his confidence. Exposure to something that your dog finds more than slightly uncomfortable should start at a level below where he begins to show fear and work slowly closer or to a higher intensity.

Another big point, also especially with other animals or children, is to make sure your dog’s exposure to new things is controlled when his behavior might be inappropriate. If he’s allowed to nip children or terrorize the cat as a young puppy, he’s not going to grow out of that behavior as an adult. Many dog resources will tell you that cats will usually teach a young puppy manners, and that as long as they have places to get away from the dog they’ll be fine. That doesn’t always work, and you might end up like me, with baby gates all over your house to keep your cats safe from your adolescent dogs. It’s much easier and safer to control your puppy’s interactions until he’s learned the correct behavior and continue to supervise him around children at all times. Even with new adult dogs, it may be possible to nip a problem behavior in the bud if you don’t allow him to ever get into bad habits in your home. It depends on how habitual his reactions have already become. Use caution and barriers until you’re certain of a new dog’s behavior with small animals. Habits are much harder to change than a new behavior, and problems only escalate if they’re allowed to continue. If you’re not there to stop him, he’s still learning the wrong things, so supervision is imperative. Don’t scare or punish your dog or puppy if he’s being rude, but do reward him lavishly for sitting and distract him with more appropriate activities than nipping kids or jumping all over strangers. Instruct adults to freeze or turn their backs if your dog jumps on them, because that is a rude demand for attention. If it doesn’t work, eventually your dog will learn to stop doing it.

Your goal with socialization is to give your dog enough background to generalize. Exposure to only a few people, other animals or places won’t be enough to allow him to generalize those positive experiences. Many dogs learn to trust a few doggy friends and a couple of people, but they become fearful with strangers or in strange places. The first year of your dog’s life, you want him to have positive interactions with every kind of person, animal, place or thing you can reasonably manage. The more positive interactions and exposure you can manage, the less frightened your dog will be of new things. Even if he’s never seen someone wearing stilts and a clown suit, if your dog has seen enough types of people, he’ll probably be okay if he comes across a giant clown. If he’s only seen the regulars on his trip around the block, he’s not going to be able to cope with the big scary change that is the neighbor’s kid’s birthday party. The more confident your dog is around strange things, the more you can do together and the safer everyone is. Confident dogs are not aggressive, and they’re fun and relaxing to spend time with.

Hopefully, your dog has a relaxed temperament and socialization is natural, easy and fun. Even if he takes a little more effort and finesse, it’s well worth it to put in the effort and gently guide your dog to at least tolerate novel experiences. He doesn’t have to roll over for a belly scratch from every stranger, but if you can take your dog into the vet’s waiting room without him being afraid of the woman waiting next to you, your life will be much easier. A little gentle encouragement and some persistence is well worth the effort.

Published by

Laura-C

Hopes to someday train her dogs not to be douchebags.

9 thoughts on “Socializing Your Dog: More Than Just Exposure”

  1. Yeah, I see a lot of doggy personalities during my almost-weekly SPCA visits. The puppies are usually happy to get attention (though one this week will need to be trained not to bite), and younger dogs are usually pretty easygoing…But the adult dogs are all different. The resident “Dog Whisperer” is an older man, who is very calm and soft-spoken, and most of the dogs like him…Except one. (My guess is that he looks like someone the dog is scared of.) Which means that when he walks into that hallway, if Chuckles sees him, Chuckles starts barking, which sets off a few other dogs in that hall. (The next hall over is usually peaceful and typically has classical music playing, which amuses me.)

  2. Something else that might help is to get your dog used to sunglasses and baseball caps. A lot of dogs are afraid of those. Also, it’s important to remember that you can NEVER, EVER stop socializing your dog, especially if it’s a protective breed, because those breeds get more and more hostile to strangers if left to their own devices. (It’s this exact reason why people who rescue stray Chow Chows are always surprised that the Chow Chows are affable and charming at first, then become protective once they get a permanent home.)

    It’s a lifetime commitment.

  3. God, this is where I can’t get my dog to get it together. She was clearly undersocialized, and if she doesn’t have time to react, she can usually handle things. For instance, if another dog runs up to her before she has time to think about it, she’s usually okay and is excited to sniff and explore. If they keep their distance, she has time to turn into monster “keep away” dog. With people, if she sees someone in a hat or hood, she can’t deal. No hat? They’re probably fine. Old men? Not a chance in hell are they going to get anywhere near her. Old people are evil. Apparently. And trying to make these experiences positive for her is frustrating and nearly impossible.

    /end rant

    1. I get your frustration SO much. My guy wants to be social, especially when Little Brother is getting attention, but he just can’t handle it. The bit flips and he snaps. We have to walk the two of them separately because Little Dog ADORES all people, especially kids. He actually mopes if too many people walk past him without stopping to give him attention.

      I do find that it helps to focus on small victories. (Sometimes really small!) We also worked with a trainer that focused on dogs with issues. It’s nice to work with people that are respectful of your dog and their boundaries, but aren’t scared.

      That being said, if you happen to be in the Seattle area, I’ll totally wear a hood and toss Daisy treats from a safe distance :).

      Just curious now-how does she react when someone she knows puts on a hat?

      1. She’s cool with it. Which, I know, means that I need to just have people put hats on, but I still don’t know many people where I live. :( (Southern Indiana) And honestly, if it didn’t stress her so much, I’d think the whole thing was funny. I’ve yelled to someone over her barking, ‘It’s your hood!’ and as soon as they took it down, she stopped her noise and sat down like, ‘I knew that! I love that person!’ They had never met.

      2. And I love small victories. When she can let other dogs walk past her without caring, I am happy all day long! (And then there are other days, when we’re 300 feet from anyone else and she still can’t keep it together.) I’ve noticed it’s very situational though. I have videos from day care where she’s playing great with the other dogs (even if she can be a little bossy) but if we’re walking through the neighborhood, she gets protective and aggressive. Walking over BY the dog park, she wants to be besties with everyone. On the other side of the park? Wants to eat faces. It makes training both harder and easier, because you’re never really sure what kind of “place” you’re in.

        1. The situational stuff is hard. In my case, Gershwin is VERY reactive when Husband and I are around, but we’ve been told that he’s fine when he’s out with a dogwalker. We used to send him to day care and sleep away camp and he loved it, but we can’t take him to the dog park at all.

          Wouldn’t it be so much easier if they could actually converse with us? I know that most of the time it’d be pretty boring (scratch my belly, keep scratching, don’t stop) but sometimes I’d kill to know what’s going on inside that head!

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