Ladyguide: How to Crochet a Catnip Mouse

Amigurumi look intimidating, but they’re actually surprisingly quick and easy to make, even if you only know how to crochet a chain and make a single crochet. Don’t believe me? I decided to make cat toys for some of my kitty friends for Christmas, and when the initial pattern I found had some confusing bits, I decided to just write my own. The best part is, this is made in one piece, so you don’t have to sew anything together at the end (or worry about the seams unravelling). Grab your hook and let’s get started!

Side view of catnip mouse


  • A small amount of worsted weight cotton yarn (I used Lily Sugar & Cream in Robin’s Egg)
  • 3.75 mm (F) hook
  • 1 locking stitch marker
  • A small amount of fiberfill or batting
  • Yarn needle
  • Optional: A jingle bell. (Make sure it’s big enough that it isn’t a choking hazard if kitty manages to chew it off; the one pictured is too small.)
  • Optional: Catnip, a small bit of tulle, fabric, or nylon (you could cut up an old pair of pantyhose), and a rubber band or needle & thread.


Note: This pattern uses US terms. Craftsy has an awesome conversion guide for those who need UK/metric terms.

  • ch – chain
  • st – stitch
  • ss – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • sc2tog – single crochet together (I use an invisible decrease; Moogly has a great tutorial.)
  • hdc – half-double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • fl – front loop


If using a jingle bell, thread it onto the yarn and push it down out of the way before starting. Ch 15, slide the bell up next to the hook, and ch 1 to secure. Otherwise, ch 16.

Skip the ch closest to the hook, then make 2 sc in the back bump of each ch to the end. (30 st)

Ss in the same ch you just worked into to finish off the tail (the ss should lie along the side of the last sc). Do not cut yarn.

Curly catnip mouse tail with a jingle bell at the end, as described above.
Finished tail with slip stitch at the base


The body is worked as a spiral; do not join rows. Use a stitch marker to mark either the first or last stitch of each round, depending on which you prefer. (I like to put it in the first stitch so I know to stop before I get there, but you do you.)

Row 1: Ch 2, then work 8 sc into the first ch.

Catnip mouse tail with first row of body worked as a circle
I made a mouse butt.

Row 2: Pushing the tail to the front, skip the unworked chain and work 2 sc into the first st and each st around. (16 st)

Row 3: (2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st) 8 times (24 st)

Rows 4-7: 1 sc in each st around. (24 st)

Row 8: (Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st) three times. (21 st)

Row 9: (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st) three times. (18 st)

Row 10: (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st) three times. (15 st)

Stuff. If using catnip, place a small amount in the center of a piece of thin fabric, tulle, or nylon. Either twist the corners together and secure with a rubber band or fold over and sew the sides together, then nestle inside your fiberfill/batting.


Row 11: Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st, sc2tog, *(Ss in the front loop of the next st, ch 2, work 2 dc in the same fl, ch 2, ss in the same fl) to form the first ear, ss in the fl of the next st, repeat * to form the second ear, sc2tog, sc in next 3 st.

Closeup of ears of catnip mouse; you can see the stuffing inside the body.
Wee perky little thing! You can see the unworked back loops at the base of the ears.

Row 12: Sc in first 5 st, hdc in the back loops of the 3 st from row 10 that formed the ear section, sc in last 4 st. (12 st)

Closeup of ear section with the hook picking up a back loop under an ear.
The back loops are kinda far down, so really get down in there.

Row 13: (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st) three times. (9 st) Add more stuffing to fill head.

Row 14: (Sc2tog, sc in next st) three times. (6 st)

Finishing: Ss in next st, pull out a long tail, and cut. Using a yarn needle, weave the tail through each st to tighten up the nose. Feed the needle through the center of the nose and out the side of the mouse, then trim the remaining tail if needed so it’s hidden inside the mouse. Feed the starting tail through the hole at the center of row 1 so it’s hidden too.


Four views of the finished mouse

The finished mouse is about 2″ tall and 3″ long (not counting the tail). If you want a larger or smaller mouse, you could experiment with different weights of yarn and different size hooks.

The written instructions and photos are the property of the author. Please do not reprint them elsewhere and claim them as your own. You are free to use any projects made from this pattern as you see fit, whether for personal use, donation, or sale. I’d love a link back, though! (And don’t believe other bloggers when they say you are legally barred from selling finished works from their patterns. You aren’t.)

You can also find this pattern on Ravelry!

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[E] Hillary

Hillary is a giant nerd and former Mathlete. She once read large swaths of "Why Evolution is True" and a geology book aloud to her infant daughter, in the hopes of a) instilling a love of science in her from a very young age and b) boring her to sleep. After escaping the wilds of Waco, Texas and spending the next decade in NYC, she currently lives in upstate New York, where she misses being able to get decent pizza and Chinese takeout delivered to her house. She lost on Jeopardy.

3 thoughts on “Ladyguide: How to Crochet a Catnip Mouse”

  1. You included a conversion chart! SQUEE! I’ve got some yarn that would be perfect for this and I wasn’t sure what to do with it, but now I do! Thank you!!!!! (And I am in total awe of you writing a pattern, my patterns consist of squares and rectangles with the occasional twist – blankets and scarves FTW!)

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