Preventing Livestock Chasing Without Aversives

I’ve mentioned before that I live next to my in-law’s cow farm, and mostly my dogs have no problems ignoring the cows. This year we’ve run into some problems and we’re having to work on livestock harassment.

The problem is three yearling calves. They’re still small and spook easily, but they should be locked up safe with their moms and easy to avoid. Unfortunately, they keep escaping and can pop up basically anywhere we walk. When startled, they make noise and take off for their moms’ pasture, which is enough to trigger chasing in many dogs. Even though my dogs are used to ignoring cows, they’re not used to ignoring tiny, fleeing, mooing cows.

Thankfully, there are options for dealing with livestock harassment that don’t involve a shock collar or other potentially problematic training methods. The root problem is that calves are so interesting that the dogs can’t think around them. The solution is socialization, building impulse control, and strict control of their behavior when they could run into the calves.

Controlling all access your dog has to something that’s triggering their prey drive is key. Even if you work on socialization when you’re present, if they’re still able to harass, chase, or otherwise self-reward themselves for bad behavior you’re not going to solve the problem. You also need to be realistic about the severity of your problem. Hunting is a mix of instinct and learned behavior in dogs. I’m dealing with chasing and nipping, not more “serious” hunting behavior, and I haven’t allowed it to become a habit. The more experienced your dog becomes at hunting, the less reliable training will be.

I’m currently only walking my dogs when my husband is also available so I can manage the two hounds and he can focus on Biscotti, who is the main problem. If they were all very focused on chasing the calves, I would need to start with individual walks and avoid having them in a group until they were all reliable as individuals. Anyone with multiple dogs can tell you that they’ll work each other up, and sometimes they’ll follow each other into trouble, so dealing with a crowd is harder and can cause backsliding.

A picture of a woman with short brown hair training a black dog in front of a pen of livestock.
Still too interested, but getting there.

Like all training, we started at a lower difficulty than our problem situation. A lone, jumpy calf in a field is too tempting. To start with, we took the dogs to a gated area where there would be calves and adults, and worked on simple obedience until they could be right at the gate, next to the calves, and still maintain focus on us and consistently obey commands. The calves were calm and curious about the dogs because they were in a group and with adult cows. Honestly, the dogs were a little intimidated that close to the herd, but reducing fear is actually an important component of eliminating livestock chasing. Things that make us fearful are much more interesting and difficult to think clearly around, and it’s the same for dogs.

As a precaution, the dogs are wearing long drag lines. These are useful for several reasons. They can be used as a leash very quickly if necessary. They’re much longer than a normal leash so they give the dog an intermediate step between listening right next to you and listening off leash, and in a real emergency, they make your dog easier to catch. Once they were comfortable and focused on us by the gate we started finding places they could see the escaped calves briefly from a distance, and we’re gradually moving closer.

At home I’m using a flirt pole to build impulse control. Any game your dog finds incredibly exciting will work, as long as you build in rules and require them to listen to commands while they’re very excited. I’ve done much more of this type of work with my hounds because of their prey drive and it’s paying off now because they were already primed for listening around livestock.

After only a few weeks of training, Biscotti is still very interested in the calves, but is able to walk on a loose line past them and come back to me reliably. We still exist when he sees them and that’s the biggest hurdle for these types of problems.

It can be hard not to assume harsh punishments are required to stop this type of behavior, but it’s easily solved once you look at the problem from your dog’s point of view and work on his motivations.

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Profile photo of Laura-C


Hopes to someday train her dogs not to be douchebags.

7 thoughts on “Preventing Livestock Chasing Without Aversives”

    1. This is what happens when you let your older dog do whatever he wants because at least he’s not being as bad as the puppies. His temperament isn’t biddable to begin with, but he’s naturally sweet and cute and non-destructive so it didn’t matter. Except that now it does so he’s going to have to live with rules again. Poor Biscuit, rediscovering boundaries.

  1. We have a horse problem. My parents’ dog loves the horses. He goes to where our fence is just a few inches from their fence and literally bumps noses with them. My dog, on the other hand, watches out the window for them to come out of the barn and runs outside barking. “Get back in your house! Get back in your house!” Now that she’s grown more used to seeing them (I think they were just big, unfamiliar, and scary) she can deal with them being in the pen, but if they start to run, she panics again. And once she’s in that mode, there’s really no stopping her. And we’re only there a few times a year so any time we make progress it’s really 2 steps forward, 1 step back. Any advice to stop it? Or do I just say, “Eh, she’s fenced in,” because there’s little I can do about it, considering the big time gaps between reinforcement?

    1. How easy is she to work with? You could probably make decent progress in frequent short sessions if you’re going to be there for a few days if she’s already familiar with counter conditioning. A refresher session when she gets there would probably help as well. If something like noise or movement make her nervous in general then working on those at home could also help. People sometimes set up large dummies and things like that, but their issues are also usually bigger. Traveling makes some dogs more nervous to begin with so working on that could also help.
      If it’s not a big enough problem for you to really want to work on I’d suggest just avoiding them and medication if she’s unmanageable the few times she does see them. A few xanax a year won’t hurt her and will make your trip much nicer for both of you.

      1. She’s not really unmanageable, per se. Honestly, it’s pretty funny to watch the horses look at her, and head back in the barn. Once they’ve all gone back in the barn, she trots back to the door, completely satisfied with her work, and no lasting terror. I don’t think she’s scared of them anymore, it’s just fun. Maybe I will try some counter conditioning while they’re moving slowly. It would probably be good distraction work anyway.

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